2018 Punta Crena Riviera Ligure di Ponente ‘Vigneto Isasco’ Vermentino

$30

Uncorking a bianco from Punta Crena always gets the job done, and the first fragrant whiff of juicy lemon, dried herbs of the Ligurian brush, and sea spray is enough to eradicate the mild discomfort of being slightly underdressed on an unseasonably warm winter evening. They say wine is liquid sunshine, so why not choose the radiant sunshine from the Mediterranean coast, courtesy of this lively Vermentino. – Anthony Lynch

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Vermentino

Vermentino, often associated with Corsica or Sardinia in Italy, offers both light white and rosé styles of wine. What most people don’t know is it’s actually a secret ingredient in many Provence Rosé wines! Whether oaked or un-oaked, Vermentino wines tend to be big, herbal, and ripe-fruit flavored with genuine interest. Well-deserving of more attention, this varietal is producing table wines of real character.

The tiny village of Varigotti sits on the Mediterranean, just a few rows of houses and restaurants on a pristine beach, with its back against steep hills. Climb up into the hills and you will discover neatly terraced vineyards on the slopes and in hidden clearings further up on the peaks. The Ruffino family has been tending these vineyards for over 500 years, hardly changing a thing as they pass their knowledge and wisdom from one generation to the next. Today the estate is run by four siblings: Tommaso, the eldest, is the winemaker; Paolo is the salesman; Anna handles logistics; and Nicola helps out in the vineyards and winery. Their mother, Libera, was a strong businesswoman who revolutionized sales by dealing directly with clients rather than working with the merchants who controlled the market at the time; but today she stays in the background, happily cooking for the constant flow of guests and tending the home-grown vegetable stand in the courtyard as her numerous grandchildren scamper around her. These unpretentious people are firmly rooted in Varigotti, and the wines they craft are infused with local tradition and character.

Ask Paolo if the family follows organic methods in the vineyards and he’ll laugh. We’re not “organic,” he says as if you had asked about some crazy new technology. We just do everything the same way our ancestors have for hundreds of years. They even build their stone terraces by hand, using the method established here three thousand years ago. The vineyards of Punta Crena (which is named for a large promontory jutting into the sea at the edge of the village) are all within 1200 meters of the water and enjoy sea breezes that help keep the grapes healthy and happy.

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